YOHJI YAMAMOTO FW20

Thanks to the avant-garde spirit of his clothes and iconic black oversize silhouettes, Yohji Yamamoto has become a symbol

By Cody

YOHJI YAMAMOTO FW20

Thanks to the avant-garde spirit of his clothes and iconic black oversize silhouettes, Yohji Yamamoto has become a symbol of the search for individuality and the struggle with clichés in the world of fashion. It is often said that his clothes are “not for everyone” because, in order to wear Yohji Yamamoto clothes, one needs to feel the world in a way their creator does.

In the European market, the Yohji Yamamoto brand appeared in the early 80s, offering an alternative to the hypersexual, visually oversaturated aesthetics of the time. The 1981 collection, which the designer presented in Paris, brought fame to the brand. Models defiled without makeup, in asymmetrical black clothes and rough shoes. Black color, laconic silhouette, deconstruction, and layering caused shock in the public, accustomed to an abundance of color, wide false shoulders, and high heels.

Black is Yamamoto’s favorite color. He considers other colors superfluous. “All that interests me is texture and geometry,” says the master. The design of Yohji Yamamoto has a darkness that is being read in the aesthetics of clothing. His passion for using this color comes from a personal childhood tragedy that forms his creative style today, as, after the death of his father, his mother never wore clothes of a different color. Of course, sometimes a designer “cheats” on his beloved black. But only occasionally.

Each Yohji item is an individual. The designer never relied on the mainstream; he does not like the aesthetics of tight dresses, hornet waist, and high heels. The person inside the clothes of Yohji Yamamoto is primarily an individual. The combination of Eastern and Western traditions create things timelessly. Despite all the modernity and even “futuristic” images created by the master, he almost always at least partially uses ancient technologies, preventing ancient traditions from fading away. To create his “couture for homeless people,” he often attracts artisans who still use old hand techniques: handicraft weaving, dyeing fabrics, filigree hand embroidery, and pleating.

Yohji Yamamoto Wool Gabardine Coat in Black Loose Fit Trousers in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Tactical High Neck Padded Jacket in Black Loose Fit Raw Seam Trousers FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Hooded Parka Jacket in Black Loose Fit Raw Side Seam Trousers FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Slim Fit Button Up Shirt in Black Raw Side Seam Trousers FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Zip Up Hooded Padded Jacket in Black Leather Raw Side Seam Trousers in Black	FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Long Sleeve Portrait Print Shirt Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Turtle Neck Stripe Sleeve Jumper Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Plaid Wrinkle Coat in Green Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Speckle 2 Pocket Jumper Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Destroyed Henley Jumper Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Patchwork Button Up Vest Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Wrap Sweater with Leather Detail Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Collarless Jacket with Chain Detail Mandarin Collar Button Up Shirt Loose Fit Trousers FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Mixed Pattern Asymmetrical Coat FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Asymmetrical Camo Print Coat Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Inside Out Pinstripe Coat Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Pinstripe Coat in Black Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Paint Print Coat in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Oversized Flannel Lined Trench Coat FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Asymmetrical Destroyed Blazer in Black Skirt in Black FW 20Yohji Yamamoto Fold Over Collared Print Shirt Skinny Sweatpants in Black FW 20
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