Sometimes when a little sister is growing up, you don’t pay much attention to her. Then one day you realize that she has grown into a rebellious, daring beauty, ready to shed layers of demure bon-ton in favor of more free-spirited self-expression. Metaphorically speaking, this is what is happening to the Red Valentino line: After living quietly in the shadow of its big sister line, it’s coming of age—in its own way.

Pierpaolo Piccioli has been injecting more energy and a daring sense of style into RV collections for quite some time, trying to amp up the label’s appeal to better resonate with the times. But the direction he’s taking feels more assertive now, as the press notes stated: “The age of innocence is over. A new self-awareness takes center stage.”

This isn’t to say that the Red Valentino customer isn’t a romantic, nor that she has ditched the femininity that’s intrinsic to the label. For pre-fall, she just jazzed it up with bolder twists and a fearless clash of contrasts. Ethereal point d’ésprit mixed with crisp techno faille; billowy ruffles sprouted from oversized sweats and hoodies; and blown-up utility anoraks and voluminous padded piumino capes were trimmed with delicate tulle volants. Bows and ribbons peeked out from repurposed denim pieces, while trench coats featured raw-hem trimmings and ample, gathered crinoline backs. See-through pieces abounded, signaling a more sensual and instinctual direction, which was highlighted by the lookbook images, lensed by the Italian photographer Margherita Tamraz.

“I wanted to convey a less innocent and delicate attitude, more self-conscious and confident,” Piccioli explained via email. “Instead of working on a sort of storytelling, we put more focus on the creation of bold, unique pieces, highly designed and with a sense of customization, to convey uniqueness and a distinctive personality.” Piccioli is certainly right. As Coco Chanel famously said, “In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different.”

In other news, Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2021. In a normal year, these dresses would be destined for summer weddings and other special occasions. Nobody knows if those dates will hold, if the vaccine will be widely available by then or if we’ll still be waiting.

“The age of innocence is over. A new self-awareness takes center stage.”

A new campaign from Valentino offers an exciting glimpse into the story of its creative director. Pierpaolo Piccioli himself captures his own work, offering an unfiltered look at the life behind his designs.

Piccioli captures Mariacarlo Boscono in the Resort 2021 collection at his beautiful home in Nettuno, a seaside town to the south of Rome. The friendship between model and designer is palpable in the photos, and a sense of openness and intimacy arises from feeling at home. Piccioli crafts his designs with emotion and intelligence, and he captures them with sensitivity. Boscono matches this feeling of the personal with much personality of her own, moving freely between moods of joy and ease.

The campaign’s short film depicts the process behind the shoot. It is a delight to see the fun Piccioli and Boscono had while creating the campaign. There are many spontaneous, beautiful moments as they shift effortlessly from artistic seriousness to friendly glee.

The diary concept is exquisitely executed in the way Piccioli gives us such an intimate and natural glimpse into his daily life, both as an artist and simply as a person. Smart art direction arranges the final project with a scrapbook-like aesthetic, strengthening the sense that these images are memories of a simple day perfectly spent.

Piccioli has generously opened up his diary and invited us into his home, and we feel as if we have spent the afternoon in the company of an old friend.

DIARY COLLECTION: VALENTINO RESORT 2021 AD CAMPAIGN

MaisonValentinohas released a new art book featuring interpretations of their iconic logo. The project is the brain-child of Pierpaolo Piccioli. He looked outside the creative powers of the house itself and called on artists from 16 different magazines to show what the Valentino logo–in shape, style, and context– means to them.

The book features a diverse range of images that all incorporate the house’s Logo, and each image is unique. For example, some play off the geometry of the logo, while others put a translucent image of the logo in the foreground with representations of what the brand means to them behind.

This new book does a brilliant job of exhibiting a wide rage of interpretation. It is evidence of the power of self-expression. Given the same initial design–in this case, the logo–artists inject their own creativity and sense of self to produce wildly different final pieces.

The book, however, serves another purpose. By engaging creatives from many magazines, Valentino ensured an incredible amount of visibility. Moreover, this project shows their regular collaborators and the world at large how much collaborative art means to them. This genius marketing move not only engaged the industry but also served to produce a final product.

Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli Called Upon 16 Magazines To Produce Interpretations Of Valentino’s Iconic Logo

VALENTINO RELEASES THEIR LOGO SIGNATURE BOOK

In a declaration of support for the Italian fashion system and making the most out of the difficult circumstances the pandemic has forced upon us, he opted for an act of bravery—and bravura. He decided to decamp from the ornate Parisian fabulousness of the Salomon de Rothschild salons for the powerful industrial rawness of Fonderie Macchi, a metallurgical foundry active in Milan from 1936. “In this moment, sticking to an old mindset for me just wasn’t an option,” he said at the post-show press conference.

Choosing a venue at odds with Valentino’s typical optics, so deep-rooted in couture, signaled the bold stance Piccioli was taking in the re-definition of the house’s stylistic codes—a process he called re-signification. “I focused on working more on Valentino’s identity than on its aesthetics,” he reflected. The wording could sound slightly highfalutin and self-congratulatory. But, as always with Piccioli, his approach was as instinctual as it was sophisticated; he’ll go down as one of fashion’s romantic visionaries, able to orchestrate moments of true creative enjoyment, both emotional and visually elevated.

Romanticism was actually much on his mind while working on the collection. He called it radical. But what does it mean being a radical romantic today? “For me, it rhymes with individuality, with the freedom to express our very own identity and diversity,” he answered. Being romantic means also not following the rules, embracing idealism, being rebellious—fighting for a better world. Believing that things can change: “Fashion for me is a way to talk about the values that matter today,” he said. “The true acceptance of diversity. Tolerance and kindness. This is the world I want to tell through my work as a designer.”

If aesthetics can actually suggest something about one’s life, then today’s street casting was a celebration of the many diverse-looking people Piccioli wants to include in his narration. Each look was individual, thoroughly chosen according to the personality of the character, young men and women coming from different backgrounds and walks of life. Yet from a fashion standpoint, the collection looked more cohesive than usual: streamlined and with fewer of the decorative flourishes and certain hyperbolic gestures of couture.

Milan Fashion Week closed with a bang, with Pierpaolo Piccioli presenting his Valentino collection for the first time here in Milan. 

Valentino is Italy's leading luxury brand. In 1959, Valentino Garavani begins designing in Rome, Italy. In 1960, the brand "VALENTINO" was started. From haute couture and ready-to-wear to bags, shoes, small leather goods, belts, eyewear, scarves and other accessories, and fragrances. Deployed in 100 countries worldwide. It is sold in over 170 directly managed stores and over 1500 stores.

The founder, Valentino Garavani, was born in 1932 in Voguera, northern Italy. His father was in charge of a local power supply company. 1949 Enrolled in the fashion sketching course at the San Marta College in Milan. The following year, in 1950, he learned the basics of making clothes at the Paris Haute Couture Union School Sandica. While attending school, won the contest sponsored by IWS (International Wool Secretariat).

After graduating, he worked as an assistant to Guy Laroche, couture of Jean Desse, for about 10 years. Independent in 1959. Opened a small haute couture atelier on Condotti Street in Rome. In 1960, the legendary Valentino Garavani and business partner Giancarlo Ziametti founded "VALENTINO".

The first collection was announced in 1962, and the "white clothes" held at the Pitti Palace in Florence attracted attention and became known internationally. Received the "Neiman Marcus Award" in 1967. "V" was adopted as a mark for the first time in the White Collection in 1968.

In 1984, he was selected as a uniform designer for the Italian team at the Sara Evo Olympics and the Los Angeles Olympics, and in 1985, he was awarded the "Grande Uffichale" medal by the Italian government. In 1986, he was awarded the Order of the German Eagle, the highest medal in Italy. In 1996, on the occasion of the 50th anniversary of the birth of the Republic of Italy, President Skalfaro appointed Cavaliere di Lavoro (Knight of Merit). In 2000, the CFDA (American Fashion Designers Association) awarded the Lifetime Achievement Award.

In 1998, sold Valentino's management rights to the Marzotto family. The Marzotto family has contributed significantly to improving the performance of the Valentino brand by strengthening its management.

In the spring and summer of 2001, the diffusion line "Valentino Rome" was announced. Named Rome, the origin of Valentino's design, it is a collection full of youth, in addition to the elegant and sophisticated world of Valentino. From the autumn/winter 2003-04 season, the casual line "RED Valentino" has been launched. After that, the Valentino group grew into a huge fashion group with German Hugo Boss and others under its umbrella.

In 2007, investment fund Permira acquired Valentino Fashion Group. In 2007, it acquired a 45% stake in Proenza Schouler and added it to the Group's brand.

In 2007, Valentino Garavani retired as a fashion designer. Alessandra Fakinetti is appointed as the successor creative director. Fakinetti is in charge of everything related to ladies such as couture, ready-to-wear, and the second line "Red Valentino", but resigned in a year. Valentino's long-time accessory designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli have succeeded.

Ferruccio Pozzoni was appointed as a men's line designer from autumn/winter 2008 but resigned as a designer in two seasons. After that, it was decided that Kiuri and Pitchori, who handle womenswear, will also handle menswear. In 2012, the Qatari royal family acquired Valentino.

In 2014, the first men's fragrance "Valentino Uomo" was announced.

In 2016, Valentino Tokyo's first flagship store opened in Omotesando Hills. In the same year, Maria Grazia Chiuri retired. Pitcholi will be the sole creative director.

In 2018, it announced that it will start developing cosmetics and fragrances from 2019 in partnership with L'Oréal.

From haute couture and ready-to-wear to bags, shoes, small leather goods, belts, eyewear, scarves and other accessories, and fragrances. Deployed in 100 countries worldwide. It is sold in over 170 directly managed stores and over 1500 stores.

Valentino has hired YH Fong, a production producer and visual artist dually based in London and Hong Kong, for the Autumn 2020 menswear campaign. The collection features woodblock-like prints and patterns which fuse elements of architecture, landscape and fantasy. For a short film, Fong used digital editing to bring certain elements to life. The prints are blown up into the background, so the clothes perfectly blend into the landscape. As shapes and figures are replicated and rearranged, there is a peculiar style that seems to accept both juxtaposition and harmony. 

It is from the intoxicating dualism that the campaign derives its energy. For all its oppositions, past and future, analog and digital, of grayscale and color, there is always a unity, the kind of sameness we assign to a pattern. Fong's technological alchemy is truly remarkable in constructing this dreamscape and we are grateful to Valentino for bringing this dream to life. 

Valentino S.p.A. is an Italian apparel company founded in 1960 by Valentino Garavani and part of Valentino Fashion Group, which in turn belongs to the State of Qatar through Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C. Pier Paolo Piccioli has been Valentino's creative director since October 2008. Valentino's headoffice is based in Milan, whereas the creative direction is in Rome. 

The company has been created in 1960 when Garavani opened a fashion house on Via Condotti in Rome, Italy with the backing of Giancarlo Giammetti, his father's associate. 

Valentino's international debut was in Florence, the Italian fashion capital of the time, in 1962. Wedding dresses for Elizabeth Taylor, Anne Hathaway, Jennifer Lopez, Courtney Cox, Sophie Hunter and Princess Madeleine of Sweden have been all custom-made by Valentino. 

In 2012, Qatar state purchased Valentino via an investment fund named Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C. for 700 million euros.

Valentino Creative Director | Pierpaolo Piccioli

Models | Callum Heslop, Jeremiah Berko Fourdjour, & Jethro Sapon

We are looking forward to seeing Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens digital shows on the 10th of July at 17h30 and 18h respectively. Stay tuned!

A new campaign from Valentino discovers a unique digital dreamscape.

DREAMATIC: VALENTINO'S FALL 2020 MEN'S FASHION AD CAMPAIGN

Valentino and Amazon have filed a joint lawsuit against Kaitlyn Pan, a women's shoe retailer based in New York who is being sued for replicating the shoe designs of the Italian fashion house, including its signature Garavani Rockstud shoe, and using the platform of the Tech giant as one of its retail points. 

Amazon, who shut down Kaitlyn Pan's account on its platform back in September 2019, commented, "Despite multiple notices of infringement and a cease and discontinue order, Kaitlyn Pan continues to import, distribute, sell and offer infringing products on kaitlynpanshoes.com," and has "flagrantly and willfully disregarded the intellectual property of Valentino" by attempting to apply for a trademark. 

This lawsuit marks the first time that both parties united in litigation. Business of Fashion also notes that "Amazon has long been rumored to be preparing a new luxury fashion site to rival Alibaba's Tmall Luxury Pavilion, but LVMH and other top luxury groups say the risk of falsification on such platforms is high." 

Valentino has been created in 1960 when Garavani opened a fashion house on Via Condotti in Rome, Italy with the backing of Giancarlo Giammetti, his father's associate. 

Valentino's international debut was in Florence, in 1962. The fashion house has designed the wedding dresses for icons such as Elizabeth Taylor, Anne Hathaway, Jennifer Lopez, Courtney Cox, Sophie Hunter and Princess Madeleine of Sweden. 

In 1998, Garavani and Giammetti sold the company to HdP, an Italian conglomerate partially owned by the late Fiat president Gianni Agnelli, for around $300 million. In 2002 HdP sold Valentino S.p. A. for $210 million to Marzotto Apparel, a fashion company headquartered in Milan.

In 2012, Qatar acquired Valentino through an investment vehicle called Mayhoola for Investments S.P.C. for 700 million EUR.

Rick Owens has openly vowed to never sell his brand; as Dazed notes, as of 2017 "80% of Owenscorp is owned by Rick Owens himself, and the other 20% is owned by Owens' commercial director and CEO, Luca Ruggeri and Elsa Lanzo."

Suing Kaitlyn Pan for replicating the Italian fashion house’s studded shoe design.

VALENTINO AND AMAZON JOIN IN A LAWSUIT OVER COUNTERFEIT

How do you pick a decade's most important collections? The ones which have had a lasting impact? As far as runways are concerned, the 2010s started with New York's Spring 2010 shows in September 2009; they ended when haute couture shows wrapped up in Paris in the Fall of 2019. 

As for outcomes? Rei Kawakubo's minimalist manifesto of Comme des Garcons first collection on our list and the sharp match with a sustainability backstory that Sarah Burton has created at Alexander McQueen for 2019. That paints a picture of a ten-year shift from chic utilitarianism influenced by the Great Recession to resourceful elegance informed by climate change terrors. It was the years that produced the most news in the middle of the decade. 

No surprise, the list contains lots of new beginnings — the industry loves nothing more than a fresh start. But an era-defining, influencing swan song also made the cut. In our mix you will find career highs together with the collections that have changed the course of fashion — the silhouette of the clothes and the look of the models who wore them. If the 2010s were a decade of change, this list was nevertheless shaped and molded by the dominant forces of the era. Iconic labels edged out fierce independents, and male designers outnumbered females. But who knows for how long: Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior, Clare Waight Keller at Givenchy, Virginie Viard at Chanel - this is the story of the recent haute couture shows. 

Freedom of expression was always a thing for Rick Owens, but here he opened the door to a new chapter, liberating himself from the ancient rules of fashion for good and jumping into a new era of runway diversity in the process.

Here, our top 10 collections of the 2010s, in chronological order.

After much debate, the enthusiastic, idiosyncratic lists were whittled down to an essential, agreed-upon 10.

10 OF THE MOST IMPORTANT COLLECTIONS OF THE 2010S

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