Had this been a normal season, an Ella Emhoff sighting on Proenza Schouler’s runway would’ve been the talk of the shows. Vice President Kamala Harris’s stepdaughter was signed by IMG Models not long after the Inauguration, and this cameo appearance is her New York Fashion Week coming out. Of course, this isn’t a remotely normal season. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez filmed their collection video two Sundays ago in Water Mill. There’s no backstage access, no street style snapshot of Emhoff hopping a snow bank as she heads into a Chelsea gallery show venue.

After producing a hardbound book for spring ’21, McCollough and Hernandez have turned the page. They special-built a website to showcase their fall lineup; the video plays at the top, and below it is a grid of looks, each one with multiple views. It will link to a pre-order section on their e-commerce site, the real-time feedback of which should prove useful; that’s one benefit of going digital, at least.

Unbelievably, McCollough and Hernandez are a year shy of their 20th anniversary; it was 2002 when Barneys bought their Parsons graduate collection. Though they haven’t lost touch with their cool kid bona fides—were they the same generation, they’d run with Ella Emhoff’s crew—they’re the old hands on the calendar this week, with many establishment brands showing later in the season. That’s an unexpected situation.

Maybe not coincidentally, they were talking a lot about balance on a Zoom call: balancing the work-from-home moment we’re currently in with the optimism they feel sure is coming; balancing softness with structure, and minimalism with a more crafted aesthetic. The result is a collection that feels of a piece with their recent work, only subtler. They still favor an earthy palette and they continue to work their repertoire of lean, confident pant suits and fluid midi-dresses, a particularly striking one in chartreuse and brown tie-dye. But where a year ago, jackets and dresses were tugged off shoulders, this season that “attitude,” as they called it, was built into their patterns, be it a spongy knit dress with an askew head hole or a top with a swooping asymmetrical hem. The former snaked around the body, while the latter had a buoyant sculptural volume. Clothes that work harder while also being easier to wear—that’s another COVID-time development, maybe one of the best ones.

In other news, Rick Owens Fall 2021 Men's. “I’m always conscious of my own aggression. And the older that I get, I feel like I should have reached a level of serenity that I just haven’t; I get impatient, I get itchy, I snap at people sometimes… Aggression is something that I’m fascinated with because I’m constantly conscious of wrestling with it, personally. And I think that that’s true of every man.”

Review of Proenza Schouler Fall 2021 Fashion Show.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s spring 2021 Proenza Schouler collection is shipping to stores this month. The designers report that the season’s top performer so far is a stretch jersey long-sleeved maxi dress with gathered cutouts on the bodice. “It’s the more dressed-up things that are selling,” Hernandez said on a Zoom call, with some surprise. A year into the coronavirus crisis, many of us are still living circumscribed lives. Counterintuitively, that may be why women responded to that sexy, body-conscious piece.

Pre-fall, McCollough explained, “celebrates the joy of dressing up, while injecting a strong sense of ease.”

After a couple of years of more minimal collections, they opted for a craftier attitude here. A halter dress in fine gauge crochet with graphic stripes tracing the neckline captures the vibe. Other hands-on touches include the deep lengths of fringe on knit skirts and asymmetrically placed mismatched buttons on closely fitted, unstructured blazers worn with puddling bell-bottom pants.

McCollough and Hernandez used a gold chain to gather the hem of a dress to its midriff, looping the fabric through hoops to create a decorative slimming detail at the waist.

In a normal year, these dresses would be destined for summer weddings and other special occasions. Nobody knows if those dates will hold, if the vaccine will be widely available by then or if we’ll still be waiting. That’s a lot of uncertainty to wrestle with. Not unlike spring’s body-con cutout number, pre-fall’s cerulean blue tank dress with asymmetric straps could be the hit of optimism we need.

In a normal year, these dresses would be destined for summer weddings and other special occasions. Nobody knows if those dates will hold, if the vaccine will be widely available by then or if we’ll still be waiting.

Proenza Schouler is a women's wear and accessories brand founded in 2002 by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. Based in New York City, Proenza Schouler is derived from maiden names of the two designers' mothers: Proenza is the maiden name of Hernandez's mother, and Schouler is the maiden name of McCollough's mother.

Awarded with the inaugural CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2004. Proenza Schouler has been honored with a total of five CFDA awards. In 2003, they were awarded with the Swarovski Award for Ready-to-Wear, and in 2009 they were honored with the Accessory Designer of the Year Award. In addition, they have been awarded the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year award three times in 2007, 2011, and 2013. In 2014, they won the Designer of the Year award at the Accessories Council’s annual ACE awards. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were honored as the special guests at the 4th edition of the Pitti W_Woman Precollection event in Florence. The following year, the designers were honored with the Fashion Star Award at the Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars Gala. In 2013, the duo was honored at their alma mater, Parsons the New School for Design, at the university’s annual Fashion Benefit. Proenza Schouler was awarded the Best Fashion Film at the Fashion Film Festival Milano for their original video, Legs Are Not Doors, in 2015. In 2016, Proenza Schouler had the honor of being featured in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s exhibition Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology.

Proenza Schouler Resort 2021 RTW Collection Fashion Show photos from New York Fashion Week (Dec, 2020).

PROENZA SCHOULER RESORT 2021 RTW COLLECTION

In a podcast during New York Fashion Week Spring 2021 season Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler stated that they had been sketching the collection from scratch at their upstate New York house without the aid of the thorough research they normally designed with. This was the duos first season since showing their thesis collection in 2002 subsequent first runway show for fall 2003 that the dup did not do a formal fashion show.

Now, nearly two months later, the duo has just released their spring 2021 collection with an art book in collaboration with the artist and photographer Daniel Shea that juxtapose looks from spring with still shots of evocative images of New York City from the Empire State building skyline to the super condos views of Billionaire’s Row on West 57th Street. 

The images in the printed book conjured a celebration of New York City and its drive and spirit that gave rise to this sharp and focused collection of long and lean shapes of sumptuous clothes – clothes that may be the next set of the basic wardrobe – in more monochrome colors of white, light pink, mustard, ice blue, deep orange and light green with an intermissions of prints and tie dye fabrics. Shea’s pictures of the changing pattern of urbanization in cities captured unique moments of his personal observations of the city amidst turbulences of the pandemic. 

This spring collection not only felt more personal in the ways that the idea for them did not originate from high brown art concepts as in many of Proenza Schouler’s past seasons, more personal in simplifying their silhouettes and more personal in the way they try to connect with their customers directly with the garments. Perhaps that is the reason why this is a powerful collection for the duo because they let go of the needs to justify their clothes with art references that somehow legitimize their work. Free from this burden, the clothes are like a breath of fresh air, perhaps spring-time fresh air. 

PROENZA SCHOULER: SPRING 2021 COLLECTION ART BOOK IN COLLABORATION WITH DANIEL SHEA

This week, Marni's pre-fall collection will be delivered to newly reopened stores; it was designed and produced in the Before — that is, prior to the tsunami-like coronavirus outbreak hit us. Now that lockdowns in most European countries have been eased, the collective mood of the After seems to be gradually lifting, with life seemingly resuming a more positive 'new-normal' pace. Having spent the last few months questioning the practices of the industry, fashion designers are now back at work with their teams in their studios, though access remains limited to outside visitors. This analysis was carried out over a call to Zoom. 

"We're all wearing protective hazmat suits when working on testing prototypes, pattern making, and trying-on samples," said Francesco Risso, his voice from the other side of the screen was sounding slightly metallic. "We all look like NASA employees." Yet Marni's mood is now considerably lighter, despite the limitations. "We are back full-force, more focused than ever, full of enthusiasm and with plenty of future projects," he enthused. 

Below is the discussion toward the collection's conceptual focus, asking Risso what guided his narrative at the time of creation and how he now feels about it, after all that has happened. "Undress Your Mind was the idea we worked around for pre-fall," he said. "There was already the need for a new essentialism, a simplified, more pure aesthetic, a more condensed deal, and most of our Marni conversations at the time. Looking at it now," he continued "it feels almost prescient in its direction and on the point of what our attitude will be going forward." But how can a desire for timeless classicism be expressed in a label known for its creative eloquence in a convincing way? "We have gone through our extensive archives thoroughly, our legacy is amazing indeed," Risso explained. "The need to streamline and reduce is absolutely not at variance with what we are. You just need to do that à la Marni."

The collection displayed in its flamboyance is a profound new equilibrium between simplicity and classicism, rigor and sensuality, deconstruction and maximalism. "When you look at this set after the lockdown, it basically talks about deconstructing a mentality," Risso indicated. "Undress Your Mind means, so to speak, removing the scaffold from the inside of your head. It's what we have had to do while in prison. Finding a reasonable balance between a sense of the real substance — value and timelessness on the one side, and imaginative indulgence and artistic focus on the other — is something that we must all tackle today. Keeping the pragmatism, but having fun with languor and libido. Classicism and fundamentalism — but Marni-ism too. Do our own way. Now we are really focused on who we are: being true to our essence as a label and asserting the core of our values; working hard on what we stand for; honoring our unique heritage and bringing it into the future — with passion, creativity and love."

Waiting for the pre-fall collections from Victoria Beckham, Proenza Schouler and Mugler. Let's hope they are going to be as incredible as Marni's. Stay tuned!

The collection displayed in its flamboyance is a profound new equilibrium between simplicity and classicism, rigor and sensuality, deconstruction and maximalism.

MARNI PRE-FALL 2020 WILL BE DELIVERED THIS WEEK TO REOPENED STORES

Sevigny has always given the impression of someone who knows how to live in New York City well. Even when she was a Sassy magazine intern, she seemed wise — especially attuned to what was going on in downtown. The perpetual "It" girl has gained a reputation, beyond her profession as an actress, model, and designer, for having an impeccable taste in anything and proving it with intoxicating nonchalance. Before anyone has heard of them, she shops at the stores later to become the top, smokes cigarettes with the misfits and the next big things, and floats with unfailing intuition from one scene to the next. 

Sevigny, who is 45 years old and about to nine months pregnant, made an exception, welcoming photographer Elizaveta Porodina via Zoom into her home. “This might be one of my last opportunities to have someone else’s eye capture this moment," she said. 

Unfortunately one of the best and most important moments in the history of Sevigny has converged with one of the darkest moments in New York. But she stays put. And if you wonder, no, she's not baking bread or hoarding toilet paper; those would be two things that Sevigny never does.

Chloe Sevigny starred in the movie KIDS in the nineties which catapulted her into the spotlight. Since then, she has made daring career choices, going for roles in thought-provoking independent films and series throughout her career. Her fashion choices have always been unique and true to her own style. Breaking the conventional boundaries of Fashion, she chooses Avant-garde designers like Comme Des Garcons and New York's own Proenza Schouler. She has modeled for luxury brands and independent designers, including Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Chloé, Alexander Wang, Kenzo and Vivienne Westwood.

Sevigny, who is 45 years old and about to nine months pregnant, made an exception, welcoming photographer Elizaveta Porodina via Zoom into her home.

Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough became stars in the fashion world back in the college days. Their degree collection of women’s clothing and accessories appeared in Barneys and has immediately been sold out. Proenza Schouler has appeared on the market this way, and the name of the brand has been taken from the maiden names of the mothers of its founders. Today, their brand is being called The New Givenchy or Balenciaga.

Proenza Schouler has reached its stellar recognition in September 2008, when Amy Adams, the winner of the Academy Award nomination for the Best Supporting Actress, had appeared on the red carpet in the brand’s dress – the label was nominated for a CFDA award in the category “Best Women’s Clothing Designers.” In November 2008, the iconic PS1 bag was launched, being inspired by the classical American school satchels.

Passion for leather, futuristic design, and custom materials are being expressed in Proenza Schouler's shoes. Since the first collection, they managed to sign a contract with Onward Luxury Group, which helps them create feminine shoes, surreal sandals, boots, sliders, and sneakers. The best-known combination of suede and finest leather, often styled as python, is combined with a vibrant ring clasp called Grommet. The lineup has everything from calfskin winter boots to metal toe booties.

In 2020, the brand continues to retain fans with its conceptual, architectural, and sexual aesthetics.

From an interview with Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, taken by Chloe Sevigny for the “Interview” magazine

CS: I want to know the correct pronunciation of the brand name Proenza Schouler.

JM: The brand name is pronounced “Proenza Schooler.” And many people carry on saying “Shuler.”

CS: The brand is called Schooler, and it has nothing to do with the school. They probably think that to say “Shuler” is more convenient.

LH: This is the same as saying, “Donna Kaa-ran.” My parents pronounce the name of the brand this way.

CS: And my manager, with whom I have been working for almost 20 years, still incorrectly pronounces my last name. He speaks Seven-ay.

LH: And how do you say it in a right way?

CS: Sevign-ee. Yeah, there is sheer confusion with these names. By the way, I’ve always been interested in this: calling a brand the maiden names of your mothers, do you feel a responsibility to your families when developing collections?

JM: The reason why we called the brand this way was, first of all, because Barneys decided to buy our collection, and the brand did not have a name. Then we thought that calling her Hernandez McCollough would not be very clever – somehow, it doesn’t sound, right?

LH: And I like it. It is better than Proenza Schouler. So I’m sorry about the chosen name.

JM: Yes, what we regret the most is the name.

Passion for leather, futuristic design, and custom materials are being expressed in Proenza Schouler's shoes.

PROENZA SCHOULER INTERVIEW WITH JACK MCCOLLOUGH AND LAZARO HERNANDEZ

The garments for modern women in big cities – this is how Proenza Schouler brand creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez describe clothing. The designers are not trying to please the new generation, who have ‘invaded’ every other fashion brand today. Proenza Schouler, despite its complex textures, is easy to wear every day. The new collection includes draped midi-skirts, silk dress-shirts, snow-white shirts with a high collar, wide leather trousers: each of these things does not contradict with the office dress code. The shoe line includes sandals with thin straps, shoes with large metal fittings, and marble-colored ankle boots – all with a square toe.

Today’s famous American brand Proenza Schouler present to fashionistas clothes and accessories around the world that are of high quality and sophisticated simplicity, giving special attention to detail and elements.

Proenza Schouler's clothing is elegant and sophisticated, combined with street fashion and modern trends. Today, stylists use wardrobe items from the fashion brand in many fashionable looks. The classic cut allows you to use such clothes for serious and sophisticated bows. An unusual print, original decor, and beautiful little things add simplicity and unobtrusiveness to the image, which is great for everyday wear. Also, Proenza Schouler's clothing is characterized by high-quality materials and incredible comfort. Therefore, many successful women and businesswomen, leading an active lifestyle, prefer the garments of Proenza.

Proenza Schuler offers fashionable women to combine beautiful and comfortable accessories with stylish clothes. Proenza Schouler bags are original, in terms of both, the shape itself and the decor. At first glance, the miniature accessory is quite practical and roomy. Using stylish Proenza Schouler bags, you will not only be distinguished by their original taste, but they also add attractiveness and confidence to your image.

Today’s famous American brand Proenza Schouler present to fashionistas clothes and accessories around the world.

Proenza Schouler launched its first handbag collection in 2008, including the PS1, a classic satchel that embodies a sense of wearable luxury that has become the brand’s signature.

First released in 2009, the PS1 is a house signature with its relaxed silhouette inspired by traditional workwear satchels. Emphasizing craftsmanship and ease of wear, the PS1 lineup is crafted in soft lambskin or suede and is available in a range of sizes and colors.

Exploring design techniques and pushing the boundaries of fashion since 2002, New York-based brand Proenza Schouler produces unique yet effortless collections season after season. With a cult following and global recognition, Proenza Schouler’s shoulder bags are sought-after around the world. The PS1 satchel quickly became an It bag with iterations appearing every season, while the Courier, Prospect, and PS11 silhouettes have been just as popular.

Launched in 2002 as a senior thesis project, Proenza Schouler has taken luxury fashion by storm. Child of design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the label blends youthful, contemporary styling with savvy grown-up flair. Laying claim to one of the hottest standout lines, the New York-based duo has gained a following that includes influential editor-in-chief of Vogue, Anna Wintour. Winner of five CFDA awards and declared a must-have label by bloggers and fashionistas, Proenza Schouler is the ‘It’ girl’s a guilty pleasure. Trendsetting and modern, Proenza Schouler is the label behind the sought-after PS1 and PS11 satchel. Structured and hard-working, both bags feature a minimal design that has an anonymous-meets-cool feel.

A classic satchel that embodies a sense of wearable luxury that has become the brand’s signature. 

Proenza Schouler is a New York-based womenswear and accessories brand founded in 2002 by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. The duo met while studying at Parson’s School of Design, eventually collaborating on their senior thesis, which became their first collection as Proenza Schouler. Named after the designers’ mothers’ maiden names, the collection was bought in its entirety by Barneys New York.

Proenza Schouler launched its first collaboration in 2010 when they created an exclusive collection of hand-painted denim with J Brand. In the same year, they collaborated with filmmaker Harmony Korine on their first original video, Act Da Fool, featuring the Fall 2010 collection. In 2013, Proenza Schouler celebrated their 10th anniversary by releasing a limited reissue of its Fall 2003 collection for Barney’s New York. The following year, in 2014, the designers collaborated with MAC Cosmetics on a limited-edition makeup collection. The same year, the brand partnered with the Parisian department store Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche for a capsule collection and exhibition. The exhibit allowed consumers to explore the world of Proenza Schouler through a display of 80 looks from past runway collections, a documentary about the brand, and an interactive 3-D cub installation. The following year, they collaborated with Harley Weir and Jen Brill on an original video, Legs Are Not Doors, featuring the 2015 Spring Collection. Proenza Schouler once again collaborated with Harley Weir and Jen Brill in 2016 on their second original video together, PS I Love You (Ithigi Lithigove Yithigou), featuring the Pre-Fall 2016 collection.

New York based womenswear and accessories brand founded in 2002 by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. 

Since establishing Proenza Schouler in 2002, design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have transformed their label into one of the industry’s most influential brands, and one of New York fashion week’s most-anticipated shows. A keen eye for generous volumes and rich, multilayered prints make it the modern woman’s go-to. Collection highs include sharp, sculptural tailoring and the iconic PS1 satchel.

The labels fusion of craftsmanship and attention to detail with a sense of refined ease defines Proenza Schouler. Inspiration drawn from contemporary art and youth culture combines with an emphasis on tailoring and the use of custom developed fabrics.

Proenza Schouler has played an important role in reinvigorating American fashion. Awarded with the inaugural CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2004, the emerging brand was established as a leading talent in the industry. Proenza Schouler has won five CFDA awards, including the 2003 Swarovski award for Ready-to-Wear, the 2009 Accessory Designer of the Year award, and the Womenswear Designer of the Year award in 2007, 2011, and 2013.

PROENZA SCHOULER: CONTEMPORARY ART AND YOUTH CULTURE 

Proenza Schouler is a women’s wear and accessories brand founded in 2002 by designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez. Based in New York City, PROENZA SCHOULER is derived from maiden names of the two designers’ mothers: Proenza is the maiden name of Hernandez’s mother, and Schouler is the maiden name of McCollough’s mother.

Proenza Schouler SS20 accessories and footwear from their showroom in Paris.

PROENZA SCHOULER RTW SPRING 2020 ACCESSORIES AND FOOTWEAR

It’s been two seasons since Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez came back to the NY Fashion Week from France, and the couturiers have got their vibe back. Without a doubt it has been a good deal, Hernandez said that they had locked themselves in the atelier for the whole Summer just working. Lately, he and McCollough were experimenting with couture and sportswear styles at the same time. The last collection was indeed the golden mean, compromising careful tailoring with delicate drapery.

Not without reason, the couturiers admitted they got inspired by the ladies in their studio, as some of them are currently pregnant and, thus, are aware of balancing. Hernandez and McCollough also referred to their mums. They said they still have their childhood memories of how the mothers used to get ready for work, which clarifies the 80s styles of the blazers and trousers with their forceful edges and dominant waists. 

The couturiers also started a collaboration with Birkenstock, and the sandals looked coherent with the primary collection as this looked like something that businesswomen sometimes do: as soon as they are leaving the office, they put on their comfortable shoes.

A few silk jersey styles with their many tiny pleats had the Madame Grès feel. Other garments with lavish layers of fabric descending from the waist had the bold, courageous mood of a lungi.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez came back to the NY Fashion Week from France, and the couturiers have got their vibe back. 

Archive

Tags