The campaign features accessories from the Fall 2020 collection with photography by Chris Maggio. The compositions seem almost confrontationally simple: a model holds a bag or a shoe and sits in front of a white backdrop at a gray table, while a block of text floating above their head reads "Balenciaga" and the piece's name. The stars inhabit a curious emotional realm; they seem almost existentially irritated to have to pose for the shot, gazing accusatorially into the frame. The outcome almost feels like an anti-campaign, an indictment of the superficiality of the marketing fashion process. 

Taken with the video forming the other piece of the Autumn 2020 campaign, this commentary seems to be especially complex. There is a striking contrast between those images and the film. While the film tries to make a meaningful emotional connection with its viewers without using words, the simplistic imagery and text here feel cold and detached. Is Balenciaga poking fun at its huge internet stans army, ready to swallow any item bearing its name? And may they point out to the hypocrisy behind their industry peers' recent pattern of performative allyship? 

Whatever the purpose behind that strange contrast, its effect is what matters. All aspects of the campaign are successful on their own, and together they indicate a fascinating dialog about the brand's position – Balenciaga or something else – in how we view and interpret contemporary culture and its issues. 

Several designers who started at Cristóbal Balenciaga's would go on with opening their own later-famous couture houses, notably Andre Courreges, Emanuel Ungaro, Oscar de la Renta but his most prominent and well-known protege was Hubert de Givenchy, who was the lone designer side by side with Balenciaga against the Parisian Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture and also the press over the scheduling of his shows.

Balenciaga releases a new photography campaign that rejects pretentiousness to embrace simplicity.

Chicago-born designer Matthew M. Williams was tapped by LVMH-owned Givenchy to succeed Clare Waight Keller as new creative director of the house. 

The 34-year-old designer who founded the 1017 Alyx 9SM label in 2015 collaborated previously with Nike, Moncler, Mackintosh and Dior. Since 2018, during Paris women's fashion weeks, he has presented his co-ed runways shows and has been rumored to be shortlisted for the Givenchy lead to which he wants to enhance the house based on modernity and inclusiveness. His first Givenchy outing is set to take place in October. 

"In these unprecedented times for the world, together with my community and colleagues, I want to send out a message of hope and I intend to contribute to positive change."

– Matthew Williams, creative director at Givenchy 

The new role of Williams marks the second time when a street fashion designer has taken the helm of a major luxury company, following the hiring of Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton in 2018. Williams and Abloh are even more connected as before launching Alyx, in collaboration with Virgil Abloh, Heron Preston, Justin Saunders and YWP, Williams co-founded men's streetwear brand Been Trill in 2012. The name 1017 Alyx 9SM comes from the eldest daughter of the designer, whereas the numbers refer to the date of birth of the designer and the abbreviation of the label's first studio on Saint Mark's Place in New York City; Since then, the designer has relocated the house to Ferrara, Italy, between Bologna and Venice, and will be relocating to Paris. 

"I am extremely pleased to see Matthew M. Williams joining the LVMH Group. Since participating in the LVMH Prize, we have had the pleasure to watch him evolve into the great talent he is today. I believe that his unique vision of modernity will provide Givenchy with a great opportunity to write its new chapter with strength and success."

– Sidney Toledano, chairman and managing director of LVMH Fashion Group

It feels like there will be more news to come this year, also in regards to the designer Alexander Wang.

The American founder of 1017 Alyx 9Sm becomes the seventh creative leader of Givenchy French House.

BREAKING: GIVENCHY NAMES MATTHEW WILLIAMS AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Archive

Tags