MARNI PRE-FALL 2020 WILL BE DELIVERED THIS WEEK TO REOPENED STORES

The collection displayed in its flamboyance is a profound new equilibrium between simplicity and classicism, rigor and sensuality, deconstruction and maximalism.

By Balthazar Malevolent

MARNI PRE-FALL 2020 WILL BE DELIVERED THIS WEEK TO REOPENED STORES

This week, Marni's pre-fall collection will be delivered to newly reopened stores; it was designed and produced in the Before — that is, prior to the tsunami-like coronavirus outbreak hit us. Now that lockdowns in most European countries have been eased, the collective mood of the After seems to be gradually lifting, with life seemingly resuming a more positive 'new-normal' pace. Having spent the last few months questioning the practices of the industry, fashion designers are now back at work with their teams in their studios, though access remains limited to outside visitors. This analysis was carried out over a call to Zoom.

"We're all wearing protective hazmat suits when working on testing prototypes, pattern making, and trying-on samples," said Francesco Risso, his voice from the other side of the screen was sounding slightly metallic. "We all look like NASA employees." Yet Marni's mood is now considerably lighter, despite the limitations. "We are back full-force, more focused than ever, full of enthusiasm and with plenty of future projects," he enthused.

Below is the discussion toward the collection's conceptual focus, asking Risso what guided his narrative at the time of creation and how he now feels about it, after all that has happened. "Undress Your Mind was the idea we worked around for pre-fall," he said. "There was already the need for a new essentialism, a simplified, more pure aesthetic, a more condensed deal, and most of our Marni conversations at the time. Looking at it now," he continued "it feels almost prescient in its direction and on the point of what our attitude will be going forward." But how can a desire for timeless classicism be expressed in a label known for its creative eloquence in a convincing way? "We have gone through our extensive archives thoroughly, our legacy is amazing indeed," Risso explained. "The need to streamline and reduce is absolutely not at variance with what we are. You just need to do that à la Marni."

The collection displayed in its flamboyance is a profound new equilibrium between simplicity and classicism, rigor and sensuality, deconstruction and maximalism. "When you look at this set after the lockdown, it basically talks about deconstructing a mentality," Risso indicated. "Undress Your Mind means, so to speak, removing the scaffold from the inside of your head. It's what we have had to do while in prison. Finding a reasonable balance between a sense of the real substance — value and timelessness on the one side, and imaginative indulgence and artistic focus on the other — is something that we must all tackle today. Keeping the pragmatism, but having fun with languor and libido. Classicism and fundamentalism — but Marni-ism too. Do our own way. Now we are really focused on who we are: being true to our essence as a label and asserting the core of our values; working hard on what we stand for; honoring our unique heritage and bringing it into the future — with passion, creativity and love."

Waiting for the pre-fall collections from Victoria Beckham, Proenza Schouler and Mugler. Let's hope they are going to be as incredible as Marni's. Stay tuned!

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