JOHN MATHESON: RARE FOOTAGE OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S GRADUATE SHOW

A project sharing unseen footage from the Alexander McQueen archive.

By Balthazar Malevolent

JOHN MATHESON: RARE FOOTAGE OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN’S GRADUATE SHOW

The Runway Collection — a Yoox Net-A-Porter video archive that uncovers behind-the-scenes images and rare interviews from the fashion industry — has teamed up with John Matheson, Alexander McQueen archivist, for a deeper insight into the unseen footage of the designer.

Alexander McQueen.

Matheson runs the @mcqueen_vault Instagram account, a page dedicated to Alexander McQueen's history, sharing unseen runway videos, interviews and other material.

John Matheson said in a recent interview: "My starting point was shows that were shot early on when footage may have been more difficult to get through, so I asked to study his Givenchy shows first because I have a weakness for his time there."

"I was immediately shocked at the amount of footage available and the level of detail. Clearly tech wasn't as advanced in the 80s and 90s, but it revealed McQueen's precision in a new light for those who have been watching grainy digitized VHS tapes for the past 20 years.

The joint project with Yoox Net-A-Porter started with three runway supercuts showcasing different new perspectives from some classic collections, including Voss, Highland Rape and The Birds. Although this new project begins with insights into well-known collections, Matheson has admitted that he is looking forward to sharing a clip showing McQueen's Central Saint Martins graduate collection from 1992.

"It was a surprise to see it unedited, even among his peers. I should have seen parts of it before but it was surprising to see it plainly and raw, because you could see just how pure his intention was from the very beginning."

Follow the @mcqueen_vault account to keep up with the project and take a look at the first video.

Recently, another prestigious institution, the Milan Triennale, paid tribute to the career of Rick Owens by inviting him to show a retrospective of his oeuvre; a tour through a world of his own making, one that is staggeringly unique and above all promoting individuality. In his own words, "There are all sorts of things I wanted to say, but there was a lot to do with being an outsider, wondering why am I restricted by those narrow limits of what is aesthetically acceptable? Who has determined the rules and why am I not allowed to play with them?"

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