ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRING 2021 MENSWEAR

“There is no hierarchy of ideas. It’s a really collaborative process,” Burton said.

By Balthzar Malevolent

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRING 2021 MENSWEAR

Sarah Burton talked about the house's fundamentally democratic process: this started at the shared cutting table used by McQueen and his team when she first entered and ran through the exhibition and workspace recently built in the attic of the Bond Street store of the company, accessible to all. “There is no hierarchy of ideas. It’s a really collaborative process,” Burton said.

This closely related menswear offering, as in McQueen's most recent resort series, expressed the community philosophy most clearly through the reuse of the drawings of its design team as a print, in this case the Fred Astaire tailcoat of look 31 meets Phil Daniels fishtail parka. These were also pieces whose surface revealed the geology of the thought and provenance behind them, as in the womenswear, as well as in the flinty black accents that punctuated the cliff-face backdrop of this shoot.

Pleasantly excavable examples included jackets hybridized in scarlet jersey bomber construction to combine black biker façades, cricket sweaters whose mysterious black ooze would never be accepted in the field of play, and a double-breasted jacket whose conventional ticket pockets survived the transition to black leather. From resort to menswear, dip-dyed dégradé color divisions, bold ribbon details and layered, opaque "skeleton" prints were also carried over. A sportingly casual logo-strap canvas gym bag, worn against a distorted Breton stripe sweater and white shorts, was perhaps the clearest point of distinction between the two here: otherwise the two-gender exercise in democracy by Burton and McQueen was strictly aligned. This value was transferred to the substance of a collection that was again made primarily of upcycled overstock fabrics, much like its seasonal sibling.

Alexander McQueen

In other news, Mugler Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear. There’s the hyper-sexy clothes, and then there’s the way Cadwallader is going about making them.

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