ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL-WINTER 2020-2021

Discover all the looks of Alexander McQueen fall-winter 2020-2021 presentation.

By Balthzar Malevolent

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL-WINTER 2020-2021

Heritage, design, artistry, and narrow-waisted suiting: the menswear of Alexander McQueen was as rich in reference as it was austere in silhouette this season. On a trip which started with a house reference: the skull, Sarah Burton and her team roamed north from the Henry Moore studio in Hertfordshire, England, to the thistle-strewn Highlands of Scotland.

With fearful reproductions of the deadly McQueen motif, artist-style overalls and an oversized hand-tufted intarsia sweater were both patterned. The relation of the artist led to Moore, with whose base Burton faithfully worked to recreate sweeping illuminated brushstrokes from Three-Quarter Figure (1928), re-engineered as well as a tufted sweater on wool suits and a topcoat.

The McQueen journey north was likely by motorcycle: at the presentation in Milan this morning, the biker jackets and asymmetric shearlings (one red example was fashioned from five different leathers) played strongly. There was trompe l'oeil bicolor but also rainbow-flecked Donegal suiting when dismounted and cèilidh-ready, other suits in a silver-versus-gold degrade, thistle-illustrated shirting, and some stunning suiting inset with abstract metallic swirls embroidered by hand. A satisfyingly punky, Renton-esque (Trainspotting, people) oversized Scottish flag sweater was added for the morning after, with rakers to make it argyle. As ever, McQueen's merchandise was irreproachable and true to its own spirit, which made it feel a shame that its fiercely beautiful runway-shown sister lacks the narrative emphasis of menswear (surely not a category to be marginalized).

In other news, David Koma Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear: “Not being able to invite any guests,” he said, due to current COVID-19 rulings. “I would have loved to have staged a show there and invited 50 people to stay for dinner after,” he mused. “Maybe next time.”

Alexander McQueen fall-winter 2020-2021
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