Dion Lee spoke about ideas of privacy and voyeurism after his SS19 show, but it’s hard to see his vision with the little lace bra tops, second-skin sheer turtlenecks, and a brilliant lace dresses that brought 90s sexiness back in a big way.

Sculptural tailoring, as seen in the black jacket with spiral seams that opened the show; corsetry, by way of stretchy athletic waistbands, hook-and-eye bodysuits and cycling shorts with lacing details; fluidity, with sheer jersey or crepe de chine dresses, including one in signature Mugler celestial blue, and an art dimension, via a collaboration with British artist Samara Scott.

The latter pieces were visually captivating, though conceptual at best. One model wore a marbled red top and cycling shorts made from pigments mixed with latex cast on glass. A tailored PVC coat featured inclusions of “chain clippings, jewelry, cigarettes, sweet wrappers, painkillers, chewing gum, kleenex, orange peel” and oodles of other odd ingredients, per the show notes.

A more realistic alternative was a blurry print silk nylon skirt, gathered over one hip, worn with a hook-and-eye bodysuit and mesh corset belt. Spiral-seam jeans, body-con dresses, and big-shouldered jackets made for a strong commercial foundation.

“For me, Mugler is for everyone, and I think if someone who is a superstar wants to flaunt and make a really big statement, Mugler should be there for them, but then on the total other side, I want to make women comfortable and feel great in their own skin in jeans and a T-shirt,” said Cadwallader.

This White Parachute Style Taffeta Jacket from Mugler features a choker-style collar, a front zip fastening, a ruched design, an exaggerated silhouette with oversized long sleeves, dangling yellow cord details and silver-tone hardware.

Made from cotton denim, these natural white high-waisted boyfriend jeans from Mugler feature belt loops, a button and zip fly, a five pocket design, logo detail to the back, twisted stripe stitch detailing and a regular length.

These black contrast stitch cycling shorts feature a high rise and a stretch fit.

Black cotton long-sleeved midi dress from Mugler featuring a fitted silhouette, a round neck and cut out details.

Black cotton high waisted trousers from Mugler featuring a two-tone design, a corset waistband, a straight leg, and a concealed front fastening.

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