Repairing means returning to precious things, re-discovering forgotten character and value, and awakening the collective consciousness and emotions hidden in the heart. Maison Margiela named the 2020 autumn and winter series Défilé, an experiment in rewriting the social meaning of clothing. Creative director John Galliano adopted the clothing culture that represented the middle class of the last century, reclaiming, remaking, upgrading and transforming the traditionally old fashion. They are reborn in modern times.

The entire autumn and winter series let people immerse themselves in the unique color aesthetics of John Galliano, from the elegant orange, brown, mustard yellow, lavender, light blue, to the strong red, forest green, cornflower blue, absinthe green, positive Yellow and Bordeaux red-brown. The entire series continues the style inspiration of the American artist Edward Hopper, who was borrowed from the Spring/Summer High Order series. From soft chiffon to stiff cloth, it has a distinctive texture like paint on a painting.

This season also uses the materials of old clothes to compose the lifestyle of the middle class. People’s preferences for adventure and sports can be seen from hiking and sailor uniforms; they include wool, flannel, and knitted tarpaulins for traditional men’s sportswear, as well as terry cloth, soft and thin fabrics used by middle-class women’s clothing. Silk and velvet are embellished with imitation fur and imitation crocodile leather materials to symbolize their yearning for luxury; while off-the-shoulder jackets and scarves echo traditional women's styles such as ribbon bow shirts, culottes, and Mary-Jane bring a sense of ease and familiarity to the whole.

The ubiquitous restoration and restructuring also appear in the "semi-finished" manual details. For example, the thin printed woolen cloth, the handwork with fan-shaped trims like lace, the asymmetrical tailored dress with transparent clothing, etc., with a bit of rough deconstruction, all focus on the identity roles of contemporary people again, and discover the tradition The beautiful value of things, and rebates the social thoughts at the moment resonates.

This time, John Galliano also brings a new special "Recicla" series for us to "reuse" concept throughout the vintage single product to give new thought, the transformation of restructuring, and set the new white Recicla label, the column name clothing sources Details such as the age and time will also enhance people's awareness of clothing and the environment.

The "Recicla" series of clothing, which will be sold in limited mode in the future, will appear as a diversified single product in this autumn and winter series, including a "worn-out" one-piece dress made of several pieces of clothing, an elongated collar formed by cutting the coat, Rattan woven handbags, Snatched handbags made of taro leaves, and 5AC handbags made from recycled precious leather.

"Recicla! Retch-ee-cla!" John Galliano, who is often accused of living too much in his own world, shouted in the backstage interview: "Great! This is great! We can sell these in other series The costumes make me very excited!"

As the times change, he has also begun to redefine the meaning of "luxury" and reassess the problem of clothing production and excess. The whole series is also as John Galliano summarized. All efforts will become social innovation in the future. This problem is not only an urgent issue, but also a problem that people should stop and think about. He said: "Everything we believe in will be rewarded."

Maison Margiela 2020 Fall/Winter Collection

Maison Margiela 2020 Fall/Winter Collection looks back on the value of old things and rewrites the appearance of modern clothes.

MAISON MARGIELA 2020 FALL/WINTER COLLECTION

Kering is a major French conglomerate company founded by Francois Pinault. Mainly operates retailers and fashion brands. Originally the company name was Pinault Printemps Redoubt. Then, in 2013, the company name was changed to Kering.

We have added a number of fashion brands to the group and are backing up to many designers. In addition to LVMH, which owns Louis Vuitton, Dior, Celine, Berluti, etc., and Richemont, which owns Cartier, Chloe, Vacheron Constantin, etc. , PPR is called the top three companies with many luxury brands in the world. 

The current CEO is Francois Henri Pinault, son of Francois Pinault. François Henri Pinault is also famous for being married to Mexican actress Salma Hayek.

In 1999, Gucci make the Gucci group by a strategic alliance. In 1999, François Pinault acquired Yves Saint Laurent's parent company Sanofi through his holding company Artemis . PPR sells "Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche" and the perfume division to Gucci, a subsidiary of PPR. However, Saint Laurent himself and the haute couture division will remain under the umbrella of PPR. By the way, when Saint Laurent became a member of the group, the previous designers Alber Elbaz (ladies) and Hedi Slimane (men's) retired. From the spring and summer of 2001, Tom Ford was appointed as the designer of Rive Gauche, concurrently with Gucci.

Over the next few years, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta were added to the group. In 2002, Stella McCartney made her debut from the Gucci Group. In 2004, the Gucci Group became a subsidiary of PPR.

Until 2006, O Printemps, a historic French department store affiliated with Printemps Ginza, which is familiar in Japan, was under the umbrella, but this was sold to Borletti Group. (Printemps Ginza in Japan is treated as a tie-up with the French head family Printemps and is operated in Japan, so it is not a subsidiary)

In 2007, sports brand Puma was added to the acquisition group. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux and Jean Richard capital participation in Sowind group faced under the umbrella of the (partnership). This will aim to strengthen the watch business.

In 2013, the company name was changed from PPR to Kering. In 2018, PUMA became independent and removed from participation, specializing in the luxury business.

Kering brands, including companies under the group: Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Valenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Thomas Meyer, Boucheron, Dodo, Girard Pergo, Jean Richard, Pomerat, Kering, Julis Nardin, Volcom, Cobra.

38-year-old Natalia Vodianova, in a conversation with a British journalist, the Russian supermodel described how 43-year-old groom Antoine Arnault psychologically supported her during quarantine. The star admitted that her husband showed her tenderness, even in those days when she was in a bad mood.

In relationships, little things play a very big role. For example, when they tell you that they love, even at the moment when you behave like a dragon. This is exactly what people swear to each other in the church: to love in grief and joy, ”Vodianova said about her relationship with her beloved man.

The conversation turned to the wedding of Natalia and Antoine, which was supposed to take place in June in Paris, but was postponed for a year due to the coronavirus pandemic. Initially, lovers were supposed to get married in the abbey of Saint-Pierre d'Hautvillers, and then, together with the guests, went to a gala dinner at Ruinart's house.

At the same time, the model admitted to Susie that her wedding dress was not yet completely ready, because due to the introduced self-isolation regime, she was not able to constantly go on trying on. Natalia said that when creating the festive dress she was inspired by shots from the wedding of Grace Kelly, but she clarified that she would have a “more rock and roll version” of the dress. Natalia Vodianova Shared other details of the upcoming celebration.

The model said that she and Antoine offer all guests to come to the wedding with their children. A separate program is being prepared for the smallest guests invited to the celebration, which Natalya personally deals with. The model also admitted that quarantine aroused new talents in her. For example, she began to cook with pleasure for the whole family and involve her five children in this process. The star mom’s new hobby was especially liked by her eldest son, 18-year-old Lucas, who, as it turned out, cooks very well. "I would never have thought that I myself would make sushi just to please the children,” shared Vodianova.

Natalia said that she found her advantages in quarantine and finally was able to spend time at home with all five children, who are usually in school or in additional classes.

Russian supermodel and son of LVMH president get married simply, seeing the bride's simple wedding dress is even more surprised.

The wedding of Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova (known as @supernova) and Antoine Arnault, the son of the chairman of luxury brand LVMH, is an event that fans have been looking forward to throughout the year. There has been a lot of speculation about how spectacular the wedding will be, how lavish the bride will wear, but after all, the most powerful couple in the fashion world gets married in a simple way. few people expected.

On September 20, long legs 38 years old and his fiance secretly registered their marriage at the District 19 office in Paris with the witness of the closest people. Once one of the top supermodels in the world, but on the big day of her life, Supernova did not wear a fancy dress but appeared in a simple waist dress of the brand Ulyana Sergeenko. Meanwhile, the groom Antoine Arnault is elegant with a navy blue suit from Berluti, the luxury brand he is taking on the CEO position.

Antoine Arnault proposed to Natalia Vodianova on December 31, 2019. The couple planned to get married on June 27 this year but were forced to postpone due to the translation of Covid-19. This trumpeted wedding may surprise many people, but it is not unpredictable because the couple is still famous for their discreet lifestyle, not liking to show off.

Natalia Vodianova is the most famous Russian supermodel in the world in the 2000s. She has walked in more than 200 shows and participated in the promotion campaign of a series of leading fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, Givenchy.

Meanwhile, Antoine Arnault is the eldest son of Bernard Arnault, chairman of the world's largest luxury group LVMH - the 4th richest person in the world at the moment with a fortune of $80 billion. Previously, Antoine Arnault used to be the communications director of Louis Vuitton and currently holds the CEO position of men's luxury brand Berluti and president of Loro Piana, a luxury brand that produces cashmere and wool.

Before meeting Antoine Arnault, Natalia Vodianova was married for 10 years and has three children. Antoine first met Natalia at the backstage of a photo shoot of Louis Vuitton in 2008 and was immediately hit by "love lightning" with the beauty. But until 2011, when Antoine heard that Natalia's divorce, Antoine offered to date her. The couple has been dating since then and gave birth to 2 sons respectively in 2014 and 2016. The family of 4 is living happily in Paris, France.

Natalia Vodianova with sons Lucas and Victor and daughter Neva on Instagram

NATALIA VODIANOVA AND SON OF LVMH PRESIDENT GET MARRIED SIMPLY

Anthony Vaccarello is a women's fashion brand in Paris. It is made as if the clothes were reconstructed and features an art-like design. In 2008, he started "Anthony Vaccarello" in Paris. It seems that this brand is currently over. 

The designer is Anthony Vacarello. Born in Brussels, Belgium in 1980 to Italian parents.

In 2006, won the grand prize at the Yale International Mode Festival. Then, Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld after working in the original, decided to separate. He started his own brand "Anthony Vaccarello" and announced his first collection in 2008.

In 2015, he became the creative director of Versace, working on both men's and women's lines including accessories, but departed in 2016. In the same year, he became the creative director of Saint Laurent.

A BATHING APE, also known as BAPE, is a Japanese fashion brand started in 1993. So far, we have presented iconic designs and items such as "Ape Head", "Pape Camo", "Vapsta", "Shark Hoody", and "Baby Mylo", as well as original patterns and characters. Currently, it has a full lineup of men's, women's, and kids' stores, and has stores in Japan, the United States, the United Kingdom, Port of China, China, and other Asian countries, and has gained a high level of support from a wide range of people around the world. BAPE has succeeded in many collaborations with famous international brands and famous artists, and is engaged in genre-less activities that are not bound by categories such as fashion.

Founder NIGO (real name Tomoaki Nagao). Born in 1970. In 1989, entered the editorial department of Bunka Fashion College. That year, he met Jun Takahashi (currently an Undercover designer) at Bunka Fashion College. He became friends with Jun Takahashi and collaborated with him before starting the company.

From the time of admission, he started attending the club "P. Picasso" in Nishi-Azabu. At that time, I met Hiroshi Fujiwara with the introduction of Ichiro Takahashi, the manager of the "A STORE ROBOT" Harajuku store, and started helping out as a DJ for his event "Family". Because his face resembles Hiroshi Fujiwara, it was named NIGO in the sense of "No. 2" by Hiroshi Fujiwara.

Graduated from Bunka Fashion College in 1991. Started working at Magazine House's "Popeye" and "Treasure Island", and experienced writers and stylists at several companies.

In 1993, the shop "NOWHERE" opened in Harajuku. In the same year, NIGO, an enthusiastic fan of the movie "Planet of the Apes," and Skate Shin, who was famous as a Cornelius designer at the time, hit it off. Established "A BATHING APE" with the same series as a motif. Unlike designer fashion, it is popular with hip-hop and streetwear, and is a hit for generations that follow it. Established a position as a street brand from Tokyo to New York.

The official name of A BATHING APE is "A BATHING APE IN LUKEWATER", which means "monkey in lukewarm water".

BAPE is an abbreviation for A BATHING APE and is used in collection designs, services, and shop names. For example, it is used for BAPE CAFE, BAPE STORE and BAPE SOUNDS, and BAPER CARD, a system that allows you to exchange rare items by accumulating points.

In 2004, he launched the brand "Billionaire Boys Club" with music producer Pharrell Williams.

In 2006, an event was held at the National Stadium Kasumigaoka to promote Fendi's new bag "B.MIX". NIGO produced this event that attracted about 1000 people. In 2007, he designed a 24-hour TV T-shirt.

The women's line "BAPY" was in operation from 2001, until the brand was suspended in 2007.

With the charismatic reader model Eri Tsukimoto as the director from the Spring/Summer 2010 season, it restarted as BAPY (reprise), but ended with the 2011 fall/winter season. In the same year, sold NOWHERE to IT, a Hong Kong company.

In June 2012, the first store of Young Line's AAPE BY A BATHING APE® was opened in Harajuku. In July of the same year, a shop was opened in ZOZOTOWN.

In 2019, the new line "b" collection, which is based on basic items such as shirts and polo shirts debuts. The design features an original logo that mixes the "BAPE" font and the Ape head.

NIGO left Bape and became the first UNIQLO UT brand creative director from the Spring / Summer 2014 season.

BAPE has succeeded in many collaborations with famous international brands and famous artists, and is engaged in genre-less activities that are not bound by categories such as fashion.

Alber Elbaz is a former artistic director of Lanvin. in 2015, Lanvin announced his retirement as Artistic Director.  

Alber Elbaz was born in Casablanca, Morocco in 1961. At the age of 10, he was taken by Jewish parents to move to Tel Aviv, Israel, and has since grown up in Tel Aviv. His father is an Israeli barber and his mother is a Spanish artist. He lost his father when he was a child and was raised by his mother. After completing his military service, he studied fashion at the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design in Tel Aviv, Israel, and graduated in 1988.

After graduating, he went to New York with only $800. For the first two years after moving to the United States, he worked for a bridal-related manufacturer for a living, but it goes without saying that he could not utilize his talent.

After that, he worked for Jeffrey Bean, a designer for the upper class in the United States, for seven years. In recognition of this achievement, he became the head designer of the ready-to-wear division of Gila Roche in 1997. While emphasizing the history of the brand, it adds a new vibrant design and is successful.

In 1998, at the direct request of Yves Saint Laurent, he designed for ladies in the ready-to-wear division of the brand, Rive Gorge. After retiring from Saint Laurent, he will be appointed as an artistic director (taking over from Yves Saint Laurent himself).

However, as a result, he did not take over the top designer of Saint Laurent. At the same time as his inauguration, Gucci acquired Saint Laurent, and Tom Ford became a designer. After all, he will leave the brand in about a year. After that, for a short time, he was in charge of the designer of the Milan brand "Crizza". Here too, it gets praise.

In 2001, he was appointed as the creative director of Lanvin. In the first collection, sequins reminiscent of 20's- style flappers, loosely sewn ribbons, etc. were announced, and homage to the design of the founder Jeanne Lanvin was also seen and praised. In 2008, in collaboration with Acne Jeans, the brand launched a denim line.

“You are about to enter my head, at your own risk! Mon dieu. Be careful, it can be a very dangerous place!” John Galliano laughs, little bit joking and a little not, as he talks to us about his great “leap” on Zoom, and how he became a director. Provided that the work he did for Maison Margiela can be defined as a 'film' - and only this - and which is at the same time a documentary, a story, an interactive provocation, something sincere, pure, extravagant. 

Residents of the Paris neighborhood where Maison Margiela is based were recently surprised when they saw a drone hovering over St Joseph's church, then slip into an open window in the building opposite and disappear. The drone filmed from above Galliano and his team at work in the atelier, and is just one of the many images of the short film made for the new Artisanal collection that comes out today.

Whatever the damage that the fashion industry has suffered due to the pandemic, the boom of innovative ideas of this period, ideas that serve to talk about clothes, thoughts, exchanges of opinion, and humanity in a broad sense, is bringing quickly to a real revolution. “Very soon I realized that fashion, as we have presented and done it so far, would never be the same again,” says Galliano. “ It won't be until a vaccine is found. And only when I accepted this new reality within myself, was I able to welcome the idea that something new could happen, that we could really change things, have new ideas, be resourceful, and this rekindled my enthusiasm. Nothing can ever hinder the course of creativity, I will not allow this to happen!”

From an emotional point of view, Galliano has, in practice, overturned his mindset , the one that for years made him create "behind closed doors" and defined his personal safety zone and the codes of anonymity of Maison Margiela. Now, however, he has decided that he will show the world every single phase of the creation of the collection, in the smallest detail, with only some very special twists within his storytelling. “I thought, 'I'll be completely transparent.' I've always been afraid of appearing in front of the lens, and all those things you do when you know it's aimed at you, but I decided I was ready. And so I called Nick Knight , to whom I am very attached, and in whom I have great confidence."

The result? Two months of shooting documenting every move by Galliano and his team in every possible format. “I wanted to document the whole process in an almost voyeuristic way. Nick caught me from afar. There were drones flying around us, in and out of my conversations. And I was wearing two GoPro cameras, one on my head, one on my chest. " Knight also put together the calls on Zoom, the messages on the phone, the calls on FaceTime, he used the thermal camera and even an X-ray app, whatever tool could capture the details of my work, up close and from afar.”

“It was a completely new and very fun journey,” Galliano exclaims. And partly the technology has somehow returned to the collection. “It influenced the way I chose fabrics for some of the clothes, it was a really creative way of working. But, of course, a lot of the scenes are in real-time, with real clothes, because I think today you want to see real things too. I asked the kids to bounce back on their iPads at the start of the pandemic. They showed their experiments by cutting fabrics in 3D on the kitchen table, on the balcony, in the garage. In reality, it all started like this.”

This is the John Galliano narrator. But there must have been something else too. “I wanted to insert a double story”, he reflects. “There is the story of the collection, but inserted within a thriller. Because? Because I like the genre, I like horror movies and thrillers, and how they are built. And because for me, the thriller is the thrill of creation, research, discovery.”

The second part of the short film was instead shot in the Cotswolds, England, and follows the timeline (beginning-end) of the creative process, which goes from the creation of the garment to the shooting. An intense experience that, due to the safety regulations and the lockdown, brought the team together very much. “We had to be in a group on set, live together, eat together, all sleep in the same place. And then, suddenly, I can't explain it, the magic exploded. My muses have become interpreters of a force, I don't know where it came from. They were there, they lived this thing, all together: my clan, my tribe, all six of them. I wanted a connection to be made between them. When you see them in motion and they communicate 100% what they are wearing, there were times when I had to leave the set, for what I saw and felt, it was so exciting that I had to walk away ”.

And all those preconceived ideas about the digital representation of fashion, which leaves no room for emotion? Galliano today considers them obsolete. “Filming is stimulating, intellectually and emotionally. Many continue to say, 'How can an emotion be transmitted digitally?' Well, I think the emotion was palpable”. What came out, he says, is a sort of “prototype” for the future, which can be used “to activate different types of dialogue, and to make generations Y and Z understand in detail how we do things. How we created the fabrics ourselves, also from the interlinings, the way we overlap the fabrics, and how we created our embroideries, in short, how we industrialized ourselves, how we became enterprising."

Maison Margiela Artisanal Co-Ed Fall 2020 Couture Collection Fashion Show

Provided that the work he did for Maison Margiela can be defined as a 'film' - and only this - and which is at the same time a documentary, a story, an interactive provocation, something sincere, pure, extravagant. 

MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL CO-ED FALL 2020 COUTURE COLLECTION 🇫🇷

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