Casey Cadwallader for Mugler showcased modern sport-meets-street styles contrasted by exaggerated hourglass suiting silhouettes, an ode to the brands iconic roots.
“For me, Mugler is for everyone, and I think if someone who is a superstar wants to flaunt and make a really big statement, Mugler should be there for them, but then on the total other side, I want to make women comfortable and feel great in their own skin in jeans and a T-shirt,” Cadwallader said. Cardi B’s derrière may have got the cameras flashing, but his designs had plenty of wattage on their own. Casey understands the modern women of the moment (previously designing for Narciso Rodriguez, Acne and Loewe, before taking the helm at Mugler).
Truly embodying the Thierry Mugler aesthetic, this collection highlighted powerful suiting with corset waists and strong shoulders, body contouring dresses with eyelet detailing and innovative parachute pieces that seemed to be from another planet. The versatility ensures there is something for everyone this season.
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Sculptural tailoring, as seen in the black jacket with spiral seams that opened the show; corsetry, by way of stretchy athletic waistbands, hook-and-eye bodysuits and cycling shorts with lacing details; fluidity, with sheer jersey or crepe de chine dresses, including one in signature Mugler celestial blue, and an art dimension, via a collaboration with British artist Samara Scott.
The latter pieces were visually captivating, though conceptual at best. One model wore a marbled red top and cycling shorts made from pigments mixed with latex cast on glass. A tailored PVC coat featured inclusions of “chain clippings, jewelry, cigarettes, sweet wrappers, painkillers, chewing gum, kleenex, orange peel” and oodles of other odd ingredients, per the show notes.
A more realistic alternative was a blurry print silk nylon skirt, gathered over one hip, worn with a hook-and-eye bodysuit and mesh corset belt. Spiral-seam jeans, body-con dresses and big-shouldered jackets made for a strong commercial foundation.