Concerning techniques, Leopold Bossert is very interested in rebuilding old machines that have totally gone from the market and are not produced anymore. Leopold bought a special selection of old machines from the 1890-1920’s that produce incredible stitching quality in a slow production cycle. The label might be using them exclusively for the made-to-measure pieces in the future. As of right now almost all of these “special” machines are customized and rebuilt by Leopold Bossert – so you can NOT buy them on the market as they are. Their Overlock and Chainstitch machines are special ones used for industrial purposes such as closing container or potato bags with extremely heavy and durable thread. It was a hard task modifying them to even work on a thin fabric such as their jersey T-Shirts. And from what we can tell, Leopold Bossert is the only brand that is able to produce this extremely heavy stitching on such delicate fabrics. Sadly it is extremely time consuming and will result in lots of misses and errors.
Leopold Bossert also focuses on modifying existing stitches in this niche market to create a new and altered version from it. Instead of offering the regular Overlock, they are offering a two-way Overlock Stitch which is called a “Scar-stitch”. It has a small seam underneath the heavy one – to have a strong visual impact. There is the “Morphing-stitch” which is basically an existing Chainstitch as known by some other brands, but the tricky part is that their version will transform from an Overlock look on top to an open Stitching on the bottom. So you can easily wear a jeans that has the seams closed till the crotch, and opens up nicely all the way down. Their latest stitches are the stand off Chainstitch, which we have not seen anywhere else as well – it has the look of a French seam, with the nice detail of the chainstitch threads on top. There is also the micro-lock stitching, which is usually applied to fur, in order to keep a very small seam allowance and not damaging the hairy fur part – when popping open – you would not see the seam on a fur piece. However Leopold has made the stitch distance so tiny, that it has an extreme amount of stitches per inch. Basically it is a very small overlock in terms of appearance, but used on 1-2 threaded machines.
All of their fabrics are from the highest quality Italian and Japanese fabric mills and very experimental. Leopold Bossert’s aim will be to develop their own fabrics in the next years, as soon as the young label gets wider distribution to to justify bigger fabric purchases and expenses. However now they aim to use fabrics with special dying techniques or materials that are not easily found elsewhere. Such as a wrinkled metal cotton fabric or special cold dying techniques provided by their mill in Italy.